Wednesday, March 13, 2024

Graphics: Dining at 14 Mott Street in New York Chinatown, Part 2: 1899–1904


(Part 1 is here.)

Mon Far Low was the name of restaurants in New York City, Providence, Rhode Island, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and Boise, Idaho. The New York City Mon Far Low was located at 14 Mott Street and apparently opened in early 1899. 

The Year of the Pig began February 10, 1899. Mon Far Low was mentioned in the New York Sun, February 21, 1899. 
Chinese Mystery Dinner
Peter Seaman Enjoyed It and His Speech Was One of the Features.

The members of the On Leung [sic] Tong Chinese Merchants’ Club ate their annual dinner last night at Mon Far Low’s Chinese restaurant, 14 Mott street.

Among the invited guests were a score of city officials and men employed about the Criminal Court building.

There were about forty Chinamen at the dinner. They were attired in their native dress and made speeches in Chinese “Boston,” the Criminal Court’s Chinese interpreter, introduced Peter Seaman, Judge Newhurger’s man to make a speech in English. Mr. Seaman got up and said:

“I like these here Chinese dinners, but I think the Arrangements Committee should have supplied us Americans with stomach interpreters or chemists for the purpose of finding out just what we are called upon to eat. My friend Sam Wolf, Clerk of the General Sessions Court, wanted to be polite and started to tackle the bill of fare upside down, because he believed Chinamen read their newspapers that way.

“I want to say right here that I enjoyed the Chinese mystery and also these hot cross buns with the firecracker sauce.”

All hands finally went out into the street to witness a pyrotechnic exhibition.

The New York Sun, August 31, 1899, reported the following death. 
Loo Hee Was Murdered.
Found Dead in His Laundry, a Wound Through the Heart.

Seems to Have Been Stabbed to Death with a Stiletto or Glass Dagger—He Is Said to Have Been the Foe of the Chinese Gamblers—Chin Gin’s Suicide Recalled

Loo Hee, an inoffensive Chinese laundryman, was found dead in his shop at 203 West Fifty-third street yesterday morning. He had been stabbed through the heart. His body was found in a sitting posture on a chair behind the counter, his back resting against the money drawer. The head had fallen back and the man’s right arm was thrown across his face almost as though he had tried to hide something from his view. The gas in the laundry was burning brightly, as it had been left on the previous night. 

The Coroner’s office was requested to take care of a Chinaman’s suicide and the body was sent to the Morgue. S. Weston, Coroner Hart’s physician saw it there soon afterwards and made an autopsy. Immediately afterward he telegraphed this message to Police Headquarters: “Cause of death in case of Loo Hee, stab wound in heart, internal hemorrhage.”

Central office was soon at work on the case after this message had been received. They learned that Loo Hee was a brother of Loo Lin, one of the owners of a restaurant at 14 Mott street. They also learned that Hee merely managed and did not own the laundry where his body was found. They found the owner, Wah Kee, in a laundry at 808 Seventh avenue and heard from him that the dead man had a few enemies. The same persons, Wah Kee said, were enemies of Chin Gin, the Chinaman who was found dead on Tuesday morning in his restaurant at 7 Doyers street. ...

The Buffalo Courier (New York), September 1, 1899, said
Dead in Chair
Chinese Laundryman Was Stabbed to the Heart.

Brothers Say Murder

Point Mysteriously to the South, but Make No Disclosures—Possibility of Suicide.

New York, Aug. 31—Loo Hee Bean, generally known as Loo Choo, 38 years old, a Chinese laundryman, was found seated behind the counter of his shop, at No. 203 West 53d Street, early yesterday morning, in a sitting posture, but dead. Over the man’s heart was a wound which, however, had penetrated deeply, passing between his ribs and piercing his heart. The instrument which caused it cannot be found. ...

Brothers Pointed Southward.

Loo Choo’s brothers, Loo Lin and Loo Tom, who are well-to-do and keep a restaurant at No. 14 Mott Street, were summoned, and they threw themselves across the body and wept. To Detectives Lockwood, Sheehan, Dale and Kerr, of the West 47th Street Station, the Chinamen excitedly declared that Loo Choo had been murdered. ...

... Loo Lin insisted that his brother had not kilted himself. He said that he was in good health, had no troubles, and never smoked opium. He said that he was making money, and showed a receipt for a money order for $200, which Loo had sent to his wife and two children in China, several days ago. 

Loo Choo was acquainted with Chin Gin, a Chinese restaurant keeper, of No. 19 Doyers Street, who killed himself by swallowing ammonia last Tuesday. Dr. Weston says that was the first instance of a Chinaman's committing suicide that ever came to his notice, and he thinks that his death may have influenced Loo Choo to kill himself.

Leslie’s Weekly, November 11, 1899, published a photograph of Mott Street.

Right to left: 14 to 24 Mott Street

The Year of the Rat began January 31, 1900. 

The banquet of the On Leong Tong was reported in the New York World, February 11, 1900 and The New York Times, February 13, 1900. 
Chinatown’s Big Feast.
Members of the On Leong Tong Association Ask Their Friends to a Grand Banquet.

Roosevelt, Platt, Depew Invited.

Prominent City Officials and Politicians Are Expected to Be Guests in Mott Street.

Chefs employed in restaurants in Chinatown have been preparing for the past two weeks dishes that will be served to-morrow evening at the clubhouse of the On Leong Tong Chinese Merchants’ Association.

Chop suey, quin la mong and yi lu ong are not considered. A list of twenty-seven courses includes such dishes as bird’s-nest soup, shark’s fins fricassee and imported Chinese canary-bird tongues a la maitre d’hotel.

The banquet will be held at the club’s headquarters, No,14 Mott street. Before the Chinese merchants and their guests are seated they will listen to a cannonade of firecrackers. It is expected that 2,000,000 firecrackers will be set off. A Chinese band will play during the banquet.

Tom Lee, President of the association, will preside. Li Chung, who is better known as “Boston,” is master of ceremonies.

Primed invitations to the banquet have been sent out. Among the invited guests are Senators Platt and Depew, Gov. Roosevelt, Mayor Van Wyck, John F. Carroll, Chief Devery, Inspectors Thompson, Cross and Brooks, Capt. George Titus, Chief Clerk Carroll, of the Court of General Sessions; Recorder Goff, Judges McMahon, Cowing, Newburger and Foster, ex-Judge Patrick Divver, Sam Wolf, William Hannah, Thomas P. Dinnean, Stephen J. O’Hare, Col. Gardiner and the members of his staff.
New York World
Chinese New Year Feast.
Celebration Opened with a Bombardment and Resounding Music—An Oriental Menu.

The Celestial New Year’s Eve was celebrated last evening by the On Leong Tong—the Chinese Merchants’ Association of New York—at the Chinese restaurant and Joss House, at 14 Mott Street. The affair was announced by several cables of firecrackers hung out from the fifth story to the ground, and went off with almost as much fire and smoke as a battle. The bombardment was kept up for an hour and a half, and cost $1,500, it was said. One of the Chinese artillerists remarked, “When Chinee melchant do a thing he do it up blawn.” ...
The New York Times

1900 United States Census was enumerated in June. Below are the tenants at 14 Mott Street.

Merchants, lines 44 to 50

Cooks and waiters, lines 51 to 59;
laundrymen and merchants, lines 60 to 80

A photograph of 14 Mott Street appeared in Harper’s Weekly, July 14, 1900. 


Harper’s Weekly, September 8, 1900, published an illustrated article about food and foreigners in New York. 

Bottom left corner: Two restaurants on Mott street,
number 14 on the right and 16 on the left.


Mon Far Low was one of many Chinatown business that donated money to the victims of the Galveston hurricane

New York World, September 15, 1900

Photograph of Mott Street taken around 1900.

14 Mott Street on the right; colorized version here
photographer unknown

In the middle of the block is 14 Mott Street, a four-story building with a rooftop flagpole, circa 1900.


On January 3, 1901 at 10:30 am, there was a fire at 14 Mott Street.

The New York Times, January 4, 1901

The Year of the Ox began February 19, 1901. The New York Times, February 23, 1901, said
The Chinese New Year.
There was joy and feasting in Chinatown last night, and there was noise a-plenty, too. Ropes of firecrackers were strung from stoops to the top stories of tenements where Celestials dwell. Chinese lanterns were lighted shortly after dark, and Chong Doc, the “Mayor,” applied the punk to a big bunch of crackers in front of 14 Mott Street.

Inside was a banquet of Chinese merchants and prominent guests, while the noise was at its height. There were speeches from the oldest and youngest Chinamen on the New Year, and all were happy, Chinese laundrymen from Hoboken, the Bronx, Weehawken, the boroughs, and other places filled the streets.

The crowd was swelled by sightseers. At this time the Mongols hastened to pay each other their debts. If they don’t there is a sort of public showing up of delinquents, and a “boycott” is declared. The crowd of New Year’s celebrators seemed to be devoid of worry on the score of debts. They paraded Mott, Pell, Doyers and adjoining streets attired in silken khaki garb, wreathed in bland smiles.

Below is a Mon Far Low menu with two dates written on it: April 26, 1901 and June 1901. 

8.375 x 5.4375 inches unfolded;
designer and calligrapher unknown

14 Mott Street is on the right

Date unknown

A Mon Far Low postcard is on flickr.

The Year of the Tiger began February 8, 1902. The celebration was covered by several newspapers.

New York Evening Post, February 12, 1902
Chinese Merchants as Hosts.
Dinner of Twenty-seven Courses for the City Officials—To Begin with Fireworks and Pudding.

The Chinese Merchants’ Association has everything ready for an elaborated dinner to bee given to the city officials February 17, to close the Chinese New Year festivities. The dinner will be given at six o’clock, and will consist of twenty-seven courses, every dish of which will be an importation from China. The dinner will be  given at No. 14 Mott street. 

Some city officials who are expected to attend are: Mayor Low, Comptroller Grout, Police Commissioner Partridge, District Attorney Jerome, nearly all the General Sessions judges, a number of the Supreme Court justices, and about 150 others. The Secretary of the Chinese legation at Washington and the Chinese Consul-General will also attend.

There will be fireworks before the dinner, when 100,000 firecrackers will be exploded. After the dinner, which will last until about ten o’clock, the officials will be taken to the Chinese Theatre, where an exclusive entertainment for their benefit will be furnished. A trip through Chinatown will end the festivities. 

The souvenirs of the dinner will be the dishes from which the diners will eat. There will be fancy plates decorated by Chinese artists, decorated chopsticks, porcelain teapots, and other dishes will be pretty and worth taking away.

The dinner will begin with pudding. The first one will be yellow fish-brain pudding, a rare delicacy imported from China, a small portion of which in Chinatown usually costs $1.50. Chickens fed exclusively on pineapple, and others fed on mushrooms, and ducks fed on fruit, will be served; with sharks’ fins, birds’-nest pudding, and chop suey. There will be thirteen kinds of preserved fruits from China, and half a dozen different kinds of cheese, made in China, and served in Oriental pots. 

Several members of the association will make personal visits to the city officials Friday to extend them verbal invitations, besides the written ones already sent out. The Chinese have spared no expense in getting up the dinner. 

New York Evening Telegram, February 12, 1902
Strange Chinese Dishes Ready for City Officials
The On Leong Hong [sic] Will Serve Eggs a Thousand Years Old and and Other Delicacies at Municipal Dinner.

The Chinese Merchants’ Association (the On Leong Hong) will give a dinner to city officials at No. 14 Mott street on Monday evening. February 17, which will be unique in many respects. All the food has been imported specially from China. The diners, of whom there will be 150, will retain the dishes they eat from and the chopsticks as souvenirs.

Before the dinner, which will begin at six o’clock, $500 worth of firecrackers will be set off. A Chinese orchestra will play and afterwards there will be a visit to the Chinese theatre and a trip through Chinatown.

All the delicacies known to the Chinese will be on the bill of fare, which will contain twenty-seven different courses. There will be bok du tuai chu, a dish which costs at the rate of $2.50 an ounce; yellow fish brains, ducks that have lived on fruit alone, fruit chicken, chestnut chicken and mushrooms in every style. There will be crab omelet and chop sooy, eleven different kinds of nuts and eight brands of teas, and eggs, preserved by some process known to the Chinese, that are said to be more than a thousand years old.

Representatives of the Chinese Minister at Washington and the Chinese Consul of this city will be present.

New York Morning Telegraph, February 13, 1902
Mayor to Dine in Chinatown
With Other City Officials to Be Guest of Mongolian Merchants.

Menu Comprises 27 Courses

In Honor of the Occasion 100,000 Firecrackers Will Be Exploded. Jerome Will Be There, Too.

The Mayor, public officials, judges of the courts and others have accepted an invitation to dine a la Cathay at 14 Mott street, February 17. 

They will feast on fish brain pudding, sharks’ fins, preserved birds’ nests, duck eggs of great antiquity, and other morceaux regarded by the Chinese as delicacies.

Only Twenty-seven Courses.

There will be 27 courses, all told, and the guests will carry away the plates, which will serve as souvenirs.

On Ieong Hong, an association of Chinese merchants, are to be the hosts.

Will Explode 100,000 Firecrackers.

They mean to explode 100,000 firecrackers in honor of the occasion, and do other things to make Mayor Low, District Attorney Jerome, et al., believe themselves popular in Chinatown.

Incidentally, all the hubbub will mark the close of the New Year festivities.

New York Tribune, February 13, 1902
Chinese Cookery for City Fathers.
The dinner of the Chinese Merchants’ Association, to be given for city officials on February 17 at No. 14 Mott-st., to close the Chinese New Year celebration, will consist of twenty-seven courses, every dish of which will be an importation from China. Among the city officials expected to attend are Mayor Low, Controller Grout, Police Commissioner Partridge, Deputy Controller Stevenson, District Attorney Jerome, nearly all of the General Sessions Judges and a number of the Supreme Court Justices. The Secretary of the Chinese Legation at Washington and the Chinese consul general are also expected to be present.

Before the dinner one hundred thousand firecrackers will be exploded. After the dinner, which will last three or four hours, the officials will go to the Chinese theatre, where an exclusive entertainment for them will be furnished. A trip through Chinatown will follow. The souvenirs of the dinner will be the dishes from which the diners will eat. The guests will carry them away.

New York Evening World, February 14, 1902
Mott Street Wants Low.
Delegation of Picturesque Chinamen Invites Mayor to Dinner.

Mayor Low is receiving calls from all kinds of gayly dressed potentates.

This afternoon a committee of Chinese princes from Mott street visited the City Hall to invite the Mayor to a dinner at No. 14 Mott street Wednesday evening.

Each member of the delegation wore his shirt outside his wide silk trousers. They had red buttons on their black pot hats.

They left with Secretary Reynolds a crimson piece of paper written over with black hen tracks. This was s duplicate invitation.

New York Morning Telegraph, February 15, 1902
Chinatown’s Banquet.
Arrangements Nearly Completed for the Queer Dinner Mayor Low Will Attend.
The arrangements for the dinner which Mayor Low will attend in Chinatown within a few days are almost complete. The banquet will be served at 14 Mott street on china service brought especially from China for the purpose.

The music will be furnished by Kee Sing’s Chinese opera orchestra, and the entire affair will be given under the patronage of the Lee Fung Co.

New York Evening Post, February 18, 1902
Chinese Banquet Fare.
Bird’s-Nest Sour First, prefaced by Firecrackers.

One hundred crates of firecrackers and fifty-seven gross of torpedoes were exploded in front of the On Leong Hong [sic] at No. 14 Mott Street last night, as preliminary to the dinner of the Chinese Merchants’s Association. Besides these there were various “twisters” and “roarers,” colored lights and waving silk flags. The noise lasted one hour, between six and seven o’clock, and then all the Chinamen and their white friends sat down to a dinner of twenty-seven courses, to celebrate the closing of the 2453rd year after Confucius. Police Commissioner partridge was there as a guest, together with other city and county officials.

At first there was a little hesitancy on the part of the diners to eat what was set before them. Especially was this noticeable when bird’s-nest soup was announced by the interpreter. The “bird’s nest” part of the soup was a variety of gelatin picked from seaweed by seabirds and stored for future use much as a bee does honey. It is said to cost $4 to $5 a pound, and is therefore considered a delicacy. Boiled squab in peanut oil was served next. There were chicken wings, boned, and stuffed with bamboo sprouts and rice; sharks’ fins, a jelly-like substance highly seasoned; and lotus lily soup, which was not a soup, but a warm drink made of the seed of the Chinese lotus. Mushroom chop suey was partaken of the most heartily. Mushroom chop suey, it is said, has no part in a banquet, but was served because of its popularity with Americans. One American woman called it “glorified hash.”

There was bundled duck and boiled chicken and several kinds of soup, besides sweetmeats in innumerable shapes and sizes. 

While these courses were being served, one of the Chinese hosts, attended by a servant, went to each of the 100 guests and drank with each as much as each would drink of the “Mandarin Drink,” which tasted very much like strong, musty sherry. Before the drinker had reached his fiftieth guest he was reinforced by another. Together they shared the burden of the remaining “healths,” and them zigzagged out of the room very erect and dignified.

The departure of Commissioner Partridge and his friends was the signal of a general onslaught on the decorations. Silks, fans, china, fruits, pastry, and what not, disappeared into the clothing of the guests. One stout man put a porcelain vase under his ulster and bade his hosts good night, unabashed. It was explained by some that this wholesale carrying-away of the banquet properties was expected.

New York Sun, February 18, 1902
Partridge in Chinatown.
Police Commissioner and Others Eat Chop Suey and Birds’ Nests.
Chinatown celebrated the closing of the 3,453d year after Confucius by two dinners and an abundance of fireworks in Mott and Pell streets last night. The On Leong Hong [sic] (Chinese Merchants’ Association) gave a dinner in the Chinese restaurant at 14 Mott street, which was attended by several hundred persons, among them a number of city officials.

Police Commissioner Partridge, Deputy Commissioners Thurston and Ebstein, Judge Warren W. Foster, Justice Mayer, Assistant United States District Attorney Lloyd, Assistant District Attorneys Train, Townsend and O’Connor, Dr. Hamilton Williams, Major Kirby of the Eighth Regiment, John W. Goff, Jr., Fred House, Robert M. Moore, William M. Fuller and Police Captain Wendel were among the guests. Tom Lee, the Mayor of Chinatown, presided over the dinner, and a speech was made by Frank Lee, his son.

The dinner consisted of all the well-known Chinese delicacies, chop suey, sharks’ fins, birds’ nests end Chinese sweet-meats. The dining room was decorated with Chinese flags and at the head of the room was a large floral piece with “A happy New Year to all,” on it in immortelles. A Chinese orchestra furnished music.

At the close of the dinner Commissioner Partridge and his two deputies made a tour of Chinatown, stopping at Joss houses and prominent stores, and winding up in the Chinese Theatre in Doyer street. The Commissioner said that he had a good time.

The other dinner was at 24 Pell street and was given by the Oriental Club. Among the guests were a good many American merchants in the Chinese trade and they had their wives with them. A number of specially invited guests were also present, among them William H. Baldwin, Jr., Foster L. Backus, Col. William C. Beecher and Dr. Baldwin, Secretary of the Methodist Foreign Mission Society.

The New York Times, February 18, 1902
Chinatown’s New Year.
The Occasion Celebrated with Two Large Banquets of Chinese Viands.
Chinatown celebrated its New Year last night with two dinners, one given by the Chinese Merchant Association and the other by the Oriental Club. Both were well attended, and a number of prominent guests were entertained at each board.

The Chinese Merchant Association banquet, which was given at 14 Mott Street, numbered among its guests Police Commissioner Partridge, Deputy Commissioners Ebstein and Thurston, Judge Warren W. Foster of General Sessions, Justice Julius Mayer of Special Sessions, United States District Attorney D. A.. Lloyd, and Assistant District Attorneys Train, O’Connor, Townsend, and Thorne. There were also prominent at the various tables a large number of police Captains and Detective Sergeants, and other minor public officials. Mayor Low, who had accepted an invitation to the dinner, did not arrive. The presiding genius of the feast was Tom Lee, the Mayor of Chinatown, who last night celebrated his twenty-fifth year as a Chinese merchant in this city. ...
New York Tribune, February 18, 1902
Officials in Chinatown.
... It seems that some time ago, out of the fulness of their hearts and the desire to solidify their already pleasant relations with the present city administration, the Chinese Merchants Association sat about their round teak table, smoked gravely and deliberated. The result of their vote which followed was that the association should arrange, order and aid in preparing a huge dinner, to which they should invite some of the great men of the city’s government. No sooner decided than red tissue paper invitations were on the way to the Postoffice. Days passed, last night arrived, and so did the time for the grand dinner at No. 14 Mott-st., and so did the guests. The Chinese Consul was there, and, with the high officials of the association to aid him, a welcome was extended the memory of which, some said, would never die. ...

In August 1902, Minister Wu Ting-fang dined at Mon Far Low. 

New York Evening Post, August 14, 1902
Various Notes.
Minister Wu Ting-fang of the Chinese Embassy was the guest at a farewell dinner given yesterday afternoon by the various societies of Chinatown. The feast was in the Mon Far Low restaurant, No. 14 Mott Street, and began at two o’clock. It cost $20 a plate, and there were seventeen courses. At the close of the banquet the Ministerial party paid a call on the Chinese Consul, at one of his offices, in the joss house, No. 20 Mott Street. Mr. Wu and his secretaries then left Chinatown for Washington, where he will remain until relieved by his successor, Sir Leong Cheng Tung.

New York Herald, August 14, 1902
Chinese Societies Say Farewell to Minister Wu at Elaborate Dinner in an Oriental Restaurant 
Leading Members of Flowery Kingdom’s Colony Pay Their Final Respects. 
Wealth of Queer Dishes

Minister Wu Ting-fang was the guest at a farewell dinner given yesterday afternoon by the various societies of Chinatown, and partook of the most toothsome dishes that Chinese chefs can prepare. The feast was in the Mon Far Low restaurant, at No. 14 Mott street, and began at two o’clock.

Loo Lin, the proprietor, charged between $20 and $23 a plate. The banquet was in fact, the most costly ever held in Manhattan’s Chinatown, and was under the immediate supervision of Secretary Wu, of the Chinese Embassy, who is a member of the same distinguished Chinese family as Minister Wu himself.

At the close of the banquet the Ministerial party paid a call on the Chinese Consul, at one of his offices, in the joss house, No. 20 Mott street. Mr. Wu and his secretaries then left Chinatown for Washington, where he will remain until relieved by his successor, Sir Liang Cheng Tung.

Among the dainties provided yesterday were Bok Du Quai Chu, Sai Foo, spring duck, fruit, chicken, edible birds’ nest, sharks’ fins, yellow fish brain, sui chen, chicken salad, boiled pure mushrooms, Lychee nuts, yan man, ginger, pears, pineapple, rice, boneless fish, crab omelette, fried spring squab and mushroom chicken. There were seventeen courses in all.

Philadelphia Inquirer (Pennsylvania), August 14, 1902
Farewell Dinner to Minister Wu
The Most Expensive Spread Ever Given in New York’s Chinatown
New York Aug.13.—Minister Wu Ting-fang, was the guest at a farewell dinner given this afternoon by the various societies of Chinatown, and partook of the most toothsome dishes that Chinese chefs can prepare. The feast was in the Mon Par [sic] Low restaurant, at No. 14 Mott street, and began at 2 o’clock.

Loo Lin, the proprietor, charged between $20 and $23 a plate. The banquet was the most costly ever held in Manhattan’s Chinatown, and was under the immediate supervision of Secretary Wu, of the Chinese Embassy, who is a member of the same distinguished Chinese family as Minister Wu himself.

At the close of the banquet the ministerial party paid a call on the Chinese Consul and Mr. Wu later left Chinatown for Washington.

Among the dainties provided were Bok du quaien, Sai Foo, spring duck, fruit, chicken, edible bird’s nests, sharks’ fins, yellow fish brains, Fui shen, chicken salad, boiled pure mushrooms, Lychee nuts, Yan-man, ginger, pears, pineapple, rice, boneless fish, crab omelette, fried spring squab and mushroom chicken.

There were seventeen courses in all.

Articles about visiting New York’s Chinatown appeared in the Atlanta Journal (Georgia).

August 24, 1902
New York’s Chinatown by Night; Joss-House, Theatre and Cafe
… Now we are off to a Chinese restaurant, Mon Far Lows, 14 Mott street, the Sherry’s of Chinatown, where the prince was banqueted during his visit to this quarter. And here’s where we find out what “chop suey” is, for our guide who knows well the intricacies of the place, orders chop suey, rice and Long Sou tea for us. We have to count eenie, meenie, to decide on the brand of tea, for how are we to know the difference between “Long Sou, Sui Shen, Long Dung, Lok On, Hong May, Chin Yen and Lin Sam?”

Mon Far, a dapper, clever looking little Chinaman, waits on us himself, evidently enjoying the interest of his “Melican” patrons. And the chop suey? It isn’t heathenish at all save in its unintelligible conglameration [sic]. It consists of chopped chicken, onions, pickles and dozens of other unrecognizable things but it’s awfully good. And the rice, the best ever cooked; to those whose taste is satisfied with it in its original dryness. The tea? Simply charming in its pungency and flavor. Of course we must eat with shop sticks. Mon Far has given us uninteresting American forks but he gladly substitutes chopsticks at our request, showing us how to manipulate them to the best advantage. We don’t often succeed in getting them to the mouth holding more than two grains of rice, and we learn that there’s many a slip twixt the stick and the lip, but at least we have the enjoyment of the novelty. Before leaving, we purchase some of the sticks to practice dexterity in the art of eating with them. …
August 31, 1902
Summer Topics in New York
The Coal Strike—The Subway—New York Economy—Where the Chinese Prince Was Banqueted

... Smiles and Chop Suey.

“Mon Far Low” was the name of the restaurant—why “far” or why “low” were equally mysterious. Mr. Loo Lin, the manager himself, waited on us with a bonhomie that was a revelation in the Chinese. He knew how to smile. With his smiles he served chop soy and rice and Long Sou tea; and although there were knives and forks in deference to American perversion of taste, we tried our prowess with the chop-sticks, and managed to pilot successfully formulate to lips several mouthfuls. The tea—leaves and all—was served in the prettiest of little pink dishes with covers manipulated so skillfully that the clear beverage was poured off into small cups, the leaves remaining in the dish to await more hot water and appetite for a second cup. That tea was delicious; the rice could not have been better; but the chop soy remained a stranger!

A look into the joss house gorgeous with new-laws, and into the Christian mission with its simple hall, its Bible and its minister, furnished a suggestive contrast. ...
Professor Leong Kai Cheu’s visit to Chinatown was reported in the following newspapers. 

New York Evening Post, May 13, 1903
Crowds in Doyers Street
Prof. Leong, Chinese Reformer, Speaking in Theatre.

Patriotic Fugitive Welcomed by Mott, Pell, and Doyers Street Merchants—Not Much Surface Enthusiasm, But All Chinatown Out to Greet the Visitor—The Dowager Empress After Prof. Leong’s Head.

Prof. Leong Kai Cheu, who at the early age of twelve achieved the degree of B.A., and four years later was made M.A., and who is the founder and Vice-President of the “Chinese Empire Reform Association,” delivered a lecture at two o’clock this afternoon in the Chinese theatre in Doyer Street on the reform movement in China. Professor Leong has been condemned to death as often as any man in China who has lived to tell the tale. Once upon a time he was teacher in the palace of the Emperor of China, a position which he filled to the great dislike of the Dowager Empress, who is in high opposition to anything savoring of reform in China. Had the Empress Dowager had her way, Professor Leong would probably have had to lecture this afternoon with his head in his hand. However, the noted Chinaman succeeded in keeping a firm grip on his head piece and with it fled from the Chinese empire, still faithful to the reform movement.

Chinatown was not to-day in such an excess of joy over the presence of the noted reformer as might have been expected in such an enthusiastic region, and when some of the merchants were asked why it was that only one or two banners hung from the second-story windows of Mott and Pell and Doyer Streets and the fire crackers seemed to be absent, answer was made that Professor Leong, like a true reformer, was unwilling that any great amount of expenditure should be made to welcome him to the Chinese settlement in New York.

“He is a very modest man,” was the explanation of Soy Kee, a Pell Street merchant, “and he would very much rather have his countrymen present in the theatre than remain at home and raise flags and fire firecrackers.”

Although no widespread demonstration was made throughout Chinatown when Professor Leong arrived within the Celestial boundaries, the entire region was alert and waiting for him long before the noon hour. In his train, when he arrived at the Chinese theatre, were Soy Kee, Chu Si Kong, of Chicago; Charlie Yip Yen of Vancouver, B.C.; Pow Chee, the reformer’s interpreter, and Wong Wai Chee. These Celestials are to meet to-night at a banquet at No. 14 Mott Street, which is Mon Far Low’s restaurant “For All Nations,” which Mr. Kee confidentially assures all inquirers, is to last at least four hours, and to be enlivened by long speeches upon the reform movement in China.

The resident of Chinatown apparently had on their best bibs and tuckers early this morning and were standing around the entrances to their shops, restaurants, and warehouses, discussing the coming of Professor Leong. Many Chinese babies were in evidence on the doorsteps as if there were some chance, perhaps, that Professor Leong would follow in the path of Western reformers and kiss some of the offspring. The Chinese have made much of Professor Leong since his arrival in this country, and he has visited many of the leading merchants of Chinatown, in token of which these merchants made a proud exhibit of the reformer’s crimson card covered with black sprawling hieroglyphs. There are at least four thousand members in the reform associations in this city, and it is to arouse enthusiasm among them that Professor Leong has made a visit to this country. The headquarters of the association in this city are at No. 20 Mott Street, where Professor Leong was entertained yesterday at a luncheon and reception.

Leong a Fugitive.

Professor Leong has been learned ever since he was small. He was born in the Province of Kwang-Tung and at the age of nineteen, after taking the Imperial examinations, in which slim-beared men usually take part, he was chosen tutor at the Hun-On Palace, a post of distinction beside the royal family. This work did not prove entirely congenial to him and in half a year he resigned, and became editor of a daily paper, which the alert Dowager Empress quickly suppressed, its editorials proving highly distasteful to her imperial ideas. The reformer then fled to Pekin and started the Progress, which made his name famous all over the north of China, and again incurred the displeasure of the Empress. This august lady was chary about suppressing so prominent a paper, and as an apparent means of extrication from the dilemma in which she found herself, a number of viceroys and cabinet ministers suggested him for appointment to Government service. This was more than the Empress could stand, and she put her imperial foot down upon the project. Minister Wu Ting Fang wrote from Washington asking for his services as Chief Secretary of legation, but Professor Leong had other things in mind, and politely declined the office. Later, however, he accepted the directorship of Woo Nan University in a province know[n] to be one of the most conservative in all China. This did not deter Professor Leong, who continued his work of reform with signal success. After this, his work in China involved the greatest amount of risk, inasmuch as the Empress seemed determined to rid herself of his influence in the Empire, especially as numerous modern educational methods had been introduced by Professor Leong. The climax was reached when the Empress and her Manchurian vassals conspired imprisonment of the Emperor and the banishment or decapitation of his retainers and advisers. Then it was that Professor Leong fled post haste to Japan, taking refuge on a Japanese warship.

Crowds to Hear Him.

It was to hear the record of his achievements in reform in China and of his hopes for an augmentation of the strength of this movement in America that the Chinamen gathered in the theatre in Doyer Street this afternoon. Long before two o’clock a chattering crowd of Chinamen had gathered at the theatre entrance, and were elbowing and pushing their way to gain admission. Meetings in Chinese theatre are proverbially noisy, and it seemed that when the time should come for Professor Leong to make his appearance there would be a great deal of difficulty in hearing him. Professor Leong is a young man, having just reached thirty, an age which seems to leave no impress upon the stoical Celestial features, and dresses in European clothing. He does not speak English, having his fidus Achates Mr. Pow Chee always at his elbow when it is necessary to converse with those of the Western world. This is Professor Leong’s first visit to America, and he arrived here on Monday, having come from Japan by way of China.

New York Evening Telegram, May 13 1903
Chinese Reformer Here Lecturing
Professor Leong Kai Cheu Is a Fugitive, Having Incurred Displeasure of Empress Dowager.

The inhabitants, of Chinatown gathered in great force this afternoon at the theatre in Doyer street to listen to a lecture by Professor Leong Kai Cheu, founder and vice president of the Chinese Empire Reform Association.

The professor arrived Monday from Japan, where he had been for the benefit of his health—not that he was ill, but because he feared he might contract that complaint, so common and fatal to reformers in China, decapitation.

The Chinese have made much of Professor Leong since his arrival in this country, and he has visited, many of the leading merchants of Chinatown. There are at least four thousand numbers in the reform associations in this city, and it is to arouse enthusiasm among them that Professor Leong has made a visit to this country. The headquarters of the association in this city are at No. 20 Mott street, where Professor Leong was entertained yesterday at a luncheon and reception.

Professor Leong has been learned ever since he was small. He was born in the province of Kwang-Tung and at the age of nineteen he was chosen tutor at the Hun-On Palace, a post of distinction beside the royal family. This work did not prove entirely congenial to him and in half a year he resigned and became the editor of a daily paper, which the alert Dowager Empress quickly suppressed, its editorials proving highly distasteful to her imperial ideas. The reformer then fled to Pekin and started the Progress, which made his name famous all over the north of China, and again incurred the displeasure of the Empress.

Later be accepted the directorship of Woo Nan University in a province known to be one of the most conservative in all China. This did not deter Professor Leong, who continued his work of reform with signal success. After this, his work in China involved the greatest amount of risk. Inasmuch as the Empress seemed determined to rid herself of his influence in the Empire, especially as numerous modern educational methods had been introduced by Professor Leong. The climax was, reached when the Empress and her Manchurian vassals conspired imprisonment of the Emperor and the banishment or decapitation of his retainers and advisers.

Then it was that Professor Leong fled post haste to Japan, taking refuge on a Japanese war ship. In his train when he arrived at the Chinese theatre were Soy Kee, Chu Si Kong, of Chicago; Charlie Yip Yen, of Vancouver, B. C.; Pow Chee, the reformer’s interpreter and Wong Wai Chee. These Celestials are to meet to-night at a banquet at No. 14 Mott street, which is Mon Far Low’s restaurant “For All Nations.”

New York Sun, May 14, 1903
China’s Boss Reformer Here
Leong Kai Cheu Is Seeking to Arouse Enthusiasm.
Had Trouble Running a Newspaper in His Native Land, So He Tried Awhile in Japan—Will Lecture Here Almost Daily—Dinner in His Honor Last Night.

Prof. Leong Kai Ka Cheu, reformer, late of China, but now resident of Japan, where he edits a new reform newspaper every day, gathered all New York’s Chinatown around him in the Chinese theatre in Doyers street yesterday to listen to a lecture on reform. Prof. Leong’s friends say he is the William Travers Jerome of China—“man who acts by day and night.”

Prof. Leong is a hustler. He got his degree of A. B. when he was only 12 years old and the degree of A. M. when he was 16. When he was 19 he took the Imperial examinations and became tutor at the Hun-on Palace, according to his friends. He tutored for a year and a half ht and then started a daily newspaper.

The editorials of Prof. Leong were so radically that the Empress Dowager made him shut up shop. He went to Pekin and tried to run his paper again. The Empress for some reason apparently didn’t want him killed or didn’t know just how to accomplish it, so she finally got him the job of director of the Woo Nan University, hoping that he would keep quiet.

He didn’t remain quiet and when the Empress Dowager’s enemies heard, just before the outbreak of the war in China, that she was going to decapitate a lot of people he skipped to Japan. A Japanese warship helped him in his escape.

Arrived in Japan, Prof. Leong saw no reason why he should not continue editing a reform newspaper for benighted Chinese. When the Chinese officials saw the reform editorials they said the paper must not enter China. Prof. Leong thereupon changed its name and got out another issue before the officials discovered the subterfuge.

“And this he did at every ever issue,” said Loo Sin of 14 Mott street, a member of the committee of welcome. “It was like this: One day the paper would be the “Sun.” Next day it would be the “World” and next day the “Herald” and so on, and so on. Names are easy to get.”

Prof. Leong arrived on the Pacific Coast several weeks ago and is making a tour of the country to interest Chinese in reform at home. By reform he means more schools, hospitals, a Chinese navy for the Chinese and no more graft for the Manchurians. The war cry is “China for the Chinese.”

Prof. Leong, who is only 30 years year old and who wears American clothes, is accompanied here by his interpreter, Pow Chee; Chu Si Kong, head of the Chinese reformers in Chicago; Charlie Yip Yen, the boss reformer of Vancouver, B. C., and two others. 

They arrived at the Grand Central Station on Monday night and were met by a reception committee of twenty-six New York Chinamen, each of whom wore a silk hat and a big yellow badge. Prof. Leong and his travelling companions lectured yesterday afternoon to about about 2,000 Chinese in the little Doyers street theatre. As many more were unable to get in.

Leong and his associates will be here for several weeks. Lectures will be held almost every day. Last night the whole party met the representative men of Chinatown at Mon Far Low’s restaurant at 14 Mott street. The only toast was “Reform.” Proprietor Mon Far Low, who is no relative of Mayor Low, provided champagne in which to drink the toast.

The Rochester Democrat and Chronicle (New York), August 30, 1903, noted the dining experience by one of its residents. 
Lives to Tell Tale.
Rochester Man Passes Through a Weird Experience in China Restaurant.
Thomas Verhoeven, of this city, has just returned from a trip to New York. Mr. Verhoeven has many surprising incidents to relate connected with his trip, but the one he delights in dwelling on the longest is a dinner that he took at the Mon Far Low, the leading Chinese restaurant in New York city, conducted by Loo Lin.

The most surprising thing connected with the repast is that Mr. Verhoeven is alive to tell the tale, for after a man has dined on “Hing Sun Chop Sooy,” “Chu Gay Squab,” “Sweet and Pungent Chicken,” “Edible Birds’ Nests,” “Yellow Fish Brain,” “Sharks’ Fins,” “Bok Du Qual Chu,” “Ya Ko Main,” and many other like delicacies, if he escapes the grave, death can have few terrors.

The birth and celebration of Lee Yick You’s son was covered in several newspapers. 

The New York Times, March 29, 1904
Chinatown to Have Birthday Party.
Francis M. Hamilton, Solicitor to Collector Stranahan, and several other members of the Customs Service received elaborately engraved invitations yesterday from Mr. and Mrs. Lee Yick Yon [sic] for a banquet at 14 Mott Street next Thursday evening in honor of the birth of their son. Lee Gin Yon. Lee Yick Yon is a large importer of Chinese merchandise.

New York Herald, April 1, 1904
Occident and Orient at Chinese Feast
New Yorkers in Evening Dress Guests of Mr. Lee Yick You at Typical Birthday Festival.
Seventy women and men clad in conventional evening dress and a score of the Sons of the Celestial Empire sat together last evening at a dinner unique in its appointments and lavishly strange and generous as to its edibles.

The host of the entertainment, which was served in a private dining room of Mon Far Low’s Chinese restaurant, at No. 14 Mott street, was Mr. Lee Yick You, a wealthy importer, of No. 34 Pell street, and in giving the feast the host was following out an ancient custom of the Yellow Empire and honoring Mrs. Lee Yick You, whose youngest child, Master Lee Gin You, was one month old yesterday.

The guest was Mr. Francis M. Hamilton, Solicitor of the Custom House. Mr. Yan Phou Lee, a graduate of Yale and a wealthy importer of this city, presided.

The decorations were exceedingly ornate, the tables being covered with flowers strange in form and color, while on the walls and suspended from the ceiling were silken banners bearing the device of the dragon.

During the dinner Master Lee Gin You, clad in rich robes of red silk and as fat and wide awake a little youngster as ever opened his eyes on an evening gathering, was brought in by a Chinese maid and passed around among the company. The ladles were permitted to kiss the youngster, and his health and that of his mother was drunk by all present. Master You looked at the proceedings through his almond shaped eyes, but made no comment.

The New York Press, April 1, 1904
Chinese Baby at a Dinner.
Many Government Employee Guests of Proud Father, Lee Yick You
Seventy men and women clad in conventional evening dress and a score of Chinese say together last evening at a dinner odd in its appointments.It was served in a private dining room of Mon Far Low’s restaurant in No. 14 Mott street, and the host was Lee Yick You, a wealthy importer of No. 34 Pell street. He was honoring Mrs. Lee Yick You, whose youngest child, Lee Gin You, was one month old yesterday. The chief guest was Francis M. Hamilton, solicitor of the Custom House, and the other guests included a dozen members of the United States Appraisers’ staff. Yan Phou Lee, a graduate of Yale, presided. 

The tables were covered with strange flowers, and there were silken banners and lanterns on all sides. The menu included such dishes as pineapple chicken, fried spring squab, bird’s nest soup, sharks’ fins, yellowfish brains, jun gee duck and but bow chicken, all go which were washed down with real Sui Shen and long sou teas.

Lee Gin You, in rich robes of red silk, was brought in by a Chinese maid and passed around among the company. The women were permitted to kiss the youngster, and his health was drunk.

The New York Times, April 1, 1904
Big Fete for Celestial Baby.
Company Honors Master lee Gin You at Banquet in Chinatown.
Seventy women and men clad in conventional evening dress and a score of the sons of the Celestial Empire were the guests at dinner last evening of Lee Yick You, an importer at 34 Pell Street. It was served in a private dining room of Mon Far Low’s Chinese restaurant at 14 Mott Street. In giving the feast the host was following out an ancient Chinese custom in honoring Mrs. Lee Yick You, whose youngest child, Master Lee Gin You, was one month old yesterday. 

The guest of honor was Francis M. Hamilton, Solicitor of the Custom House. Yan Phou Lee, a graduate of Yale, and a wealthy importer of this city, presided. The tables were covered with flowers, strange both in form and color, while on the walls and suspended from the celling were silken banners bearing the device of the dragon, and bewildering as to color were other flags, banners, and lanterns.

The menu included dishes dear to the Celestial heart, such as pine apple chicken, fried Spring squab, mushroom chicken, bird’s nest soup, shark’s fins, yellow fish brains, chestnut chicken, and Jun Gee duck, washed down with Sui Shen and Long Sou teas specially imported for the occasion.

During the dinner Master Lee Gin You, clad in rich robes of red silk, was brought in by a Chinese maid and passed around among the company. The ladles were permitted to kiss the youngster, and his health and that of his mother was drunk by all present.

Complimentary addresses were made by Mr. Hamilton, Miss Harriet Quimbey, a newspaper woman of San Francisco; Capt. William Lee, Treasury Agent D. E. Galboldy, and Capt. Howard Patterson of the New York Nautical School.

Trow’s General Directory of the Boroughs of Manhattan and Bronx, City of New York, July 1, 1904 had a listing for “Mine Far Low” at 14 Mott Street. 


14 Mott Street on the right;
Mine Far Low Restaurant sign

Date unknown

The New York Times, November 2, 1904, said 
Chinatown’s Cupid Busy.
Winged Three Couples in One Night at Chop Suey Parlor.
Three men, two maids, and a dashing young widow made a hastily planned trip through Chinatown one night six weeks ago. Before the outing ended the Chinese Cupid had paired them off. Two of the three couples are already wedded. The third will follow suit the first week of the new year.

From all accounts the little god began to get busy when the chop suey was served in Loo Ling’s restaurant, 14 Mott Street. The first wedding took place within a month, when ex-Congressman Henry Cassorte Smith of Michigan, now general counsel of the Michigan Central Railroad, and Miss Virginia Bassett were married at the Church of the Transfiguration. ...

Mon Far Low’s fine was rescinded according to The City Record (New York), November 4, 1904.
Resolved, That the Corporation Counsel be and is hereby requested to discontinue without costs the actions against the following named persons for violations of the Sanitary Code and of the Health Laws, the Inspector having reported the orders therein complied with, or the nuisances complained of abated, a permit having been granted or violations removed, or the orders rescinded, to wit: 
Mon Far Low 1,022
14 Mott Street, second building from 
the right; circa 1904



* * * * * * * * 

SIDEBAR: Loo Lin’s Wife’s Trip to America Was Tangled in Red Tape

New York Herald, May 25, 1903
Chinese Wife Asks Aid of President
Barred from Husband by Red Tape, Mrs. Loo-Lin Appeals to Mr. Roosevelt.

Effect of Queer Law
Because He Owns Restaurant She Is Classed as Laborer’s Wife.

Both Are Well Educated
Woman Detained at San Francisco by Immigration Authorities for Weeks.

Loo Lin Ben, leader of the progressive element in New York’s Chinatown, a man of culture and learning, thoroughly Americanized in most of his ways, announced last night that he had fallen back upon his early philosophy to comfort him in his distress resulting from the treatment his wife is receiving at the hands of the United States immigration officials. Mrs. Loo Lin, a woman of refinement, a teacher of recognized ability in her own country, has been held a prisoner in the detention pen in San Francisco merely because her husband, though a merchant, happens to own an interest in a restaurant.

For some reason the United States government chooses to class the owner of a restaurant as a laborer, and as a Chinese laborer has no right to bring his foreign wife to this country little Mrs. Loo Lin must suffer until some official has the nerve to cut the red tape that bars her from American shores.

Loo Lin’s countrymen regard him with affection, and they trust him. His American friends also trust and respect him. He has done more than any other person to drive crime from Mott and Pell streets. He is a member of the First Baptist Church, Seventy-ninth street and Broadway, and he has been active in forwarding the interests of the Morning Star Mission for Chinamen. For several years he was at the head of that mission, and he has long been a member of the Young Men’s Christian Association.

Loo is the senior member of the firm of G. Ton Toy & Co., at No. 3 Mott street, where a General merchandise business is carried on. He is also associated with his brother in the restaurant at No. 14 Mott street, known as Mon Far Low, which translated into English, is “The Restaurant of Countless Flow­ers.” To a reporter for the Herald Loo Lin yesterday told the following story of his troubles:—

“I try to be patient, but there is nothing that I have learned since my arrival in the United States, fifteen years ago, that gives me any assistance. I know that everything will come out right in the end, and in the meantime I must be a Chinese philosopher.

“In the first place, my wife is not a woman of the ordinary type known in this country. She is progressive, is well educated, has been a teacher in Canton for several years, her writings have been regarded as meritorious, and, finally, she has been the editor of a real newspaper, devoted to the inter­ests of Chinese women.

“Well as I like America and the ways of Americans, I desired a wife of my own race. I wanted to marry a girl whom my mother would approve. So it happened that five years ago I returned to China. There I was introduced to Mak Chue by Mrs. R. H. Graves, the wife of the American medical missionary in Canton. Mrs. Graves, who, with her husband, is now making a visit to her relatives in Maryland, had known Mak Chue for many years, and knew her to be a bright girl and of a nature that would permit her to enjoy life in the United States.

“Mak Chue was then nineteen years old, and to me she was the most beautiful woman I had ever seen. Well, I wanted Mak Chue for my wife, but I would do nothing without the approval of my mother, the good Liang Loo. To her I went, and to my joy found that she approved Mak Chue and was more than willing to accept her as a daughter-in-law. We were married, and there were present when the ceremony was performed my mother and my sisters. Loo Fong and Loo See, and among others Dr. and Mrs. Graves and Mrs. Claudia J. White, who is now living in San Francisco, but who was then a teacher in Canton. My wife went to live with my mother, who was to teach her the traditions of my family. I returned to New York, it being understood that my wife would come to me at the end of five years.

“Now she has come to make my home her home, and she is held a prisoner in the detention shed on the Pacific Mail wharf in San Francisco. She has been there a month. But she is a philosopher and she has not yet lost confidence in the goodness of the Western World. We are to live not here in Chinatown, but up where there is more light and air and sunshine. My wife will teach in Chinatown, and, indeed, arrangements have already been made for her to take a class of children who do not understand the English language. But when will she be here? I do not know. She is held a prisoner because I own this restaurant and so must be called a laborer. If I sold tea and nothing more there would be no trouble. However, I have many good friends and I am confident that the red tape will soon be cut and everything will be well. I have appealed to President Roosevelt and I am told that he will help me. Perhaps it will not be necessary to wait for his return to Washington. I hope not.”

San Francisco Call, May 25, 1903
Loo Lin Talks of Wife’s Woes
Husband of the Chinese “New Woman” Hopes for the Best.
Believes Her Imprisonment in San Francisco Will End Soon.

New York, May 24.— The Herald will say to-morrow: Loo Lin Ben, leader of the progressive element in New York’s Chinatown, a man of learning and thoroughly Americanized in most of his ways, announced to-night that he had fallen back upon his early philosophy to comfort him in the distress resulting from the treatment his wife is receiving at the hands of United States immigration officials. Mrs. Loo Lin has been held a prisoner in the detention pen in San Francisco because her husband, though a merchant, happens to own an interest in a restaurant. Loo is senior member of the firm of G. Tomtoy & Co., at 3 Mott street, where a general merchandise business is carried on. He is also associated with his brother in a restaurant at 14 Mott street, known as Mon Far Low, which, translated into English, is “The Restaurant of Countless Flowers.” Loo said to-night:

My wife is not a woman of the ordinary type known in this country. She is progressive, is well educated, has been a teacher in Canton for several years, her writings have been regarded as meritorious, and, finally, she has been editor of a real newspaper devoted to the interests of Chinese women. She is held a prisoner in the detention shed on the Pacific Mail wharf in San Francisco. She has been there a month. My wife expects to teach in New York and arrangements have already been made for her to take charge of a school for children who do not understand the English language. I have many good friends and I am confident that the “red tape” will soon be cut and everything will be well. The case has been appealed to Washington and I am receiving assistance from men of high standing in New York.

The World will say to-morrow that Loo Lin has friends who concluded that as Americans they would not stand by and see what they deemed a piece of stupidity and injustice pass and they determined that Mrs. Loo Lin should come in. The appeal will reach Washington in a few days, and there is no doubt, says the World, that the department will overrule the absurd decision of the New York inspector, who reports Loo Lin to be a “laborer” because he owned a restaurant in addition to his mercantile business.

There are several peculiar things about the manner which the case of Mrs. Loo Lin has been handled that will call for action at the proper time, say the friends of Loo Lin.

Mrs. Loo Lin, the Chinese “new woman,” who has been detained in the sheds of the Pacific Mall Steamship Company, by instructions of the Chinese Bureau, for more than a month, pending the unraveling of a “red tape” tangle involving her right to land, is quite ill, and has requested the attendance of a physician. She has been enduring in great patience her enforced imprisonment, but her general health has been impaired by the long confinement. Sympathizers in this city are doing as much as possible to provide for her comfort, though handicapped by her cheerless environment. 

New York Herald, September 15, 1903
Chinese School Failed to Open
Kindergarten in Mott Street Missed Its teacher and Operations Were Postponed.

Mrs. Loo Lin Was Delayed
Held in San Francisco, the Head of the Institution Had to Provide a Heavy Bond.

There was one part of the local school system which did not get into operation yesterday, and that was the kindergarten to be conducted for Chinatown, at No. 11 1/2 Mott street, under the auspices of the New York Presbytery. The reason was the non-arrival from China of the pretty wife of Loo Linn, a well known merchant of that section of the city, who lives at No. 14 Mott street.

Mrs. Loo Linn came from China to San Francisco last April with the Rev. Dr. Gray, but was held there under the Chinese exclusion act for forty-two days. Her husband has been in this city for twelve years. He made some money in the laundry business and seven yearn ago went back to China and was married. He returned to the United States the following year, leaving his wife after him in Canton, where she was a teacher in the college attached to the Baptist mission there. Since he has prospered as a merchant.

He enlisted the sympathy of the mission authorities here and in San Francisco, and the necessary papers having been forwarded to Washington she was released under a bond of $1.000. furnished by the Canadian Pacific Railroad. She then went to Montreal, where she has been staying since.

She is expected to arrive in this city to-day, and will receive a warm reception in Chinatown. She will take charge of the Chinatown kindergarten at once.

New York Sun, September 23, 1903
Kept Apart by Red Tape.
Mrs. Loo Lin, the Christianized Chinese wife of Loo Lin a restaurant keeper at 14 Mott street, and who has been the subject of much correspondence between tho port authorities and her Christian missionary friends, reached her husband safely last night, exactly five months after leaving the Canton Baptist Academy.

All her troubles in getting into the country were because she did not carry with her from China the proper passports. She came with the credentials of a merchant’s wife, and upon her arrival at San Francisco learned that restaurant keepers were not officially recognized as ”merchants.”

The Rev. R. H. Graves and his wife, who accompanied her, offered the Government authorities all sorts of identifications and recommendations, but it was impossible to sever the red tape until a new set of passports arrived from China.

Mrs. Loo Lin was detained in San Francisco, but the Canadian Pacific Railroad put up a $1,000 bond, under which she was allowed to go on to Montreal to live with missionary friends. Last month passports identifying her as a Christian missionary teacher arrived but it was not until Monday that she went before United States Inspector F. W. Berkshire at Malone, N. Y., to be passed upon.

She was permitted to go as soon as it was satisfactorily established that she really intended to do mission work. Miss Helen F. Clark of the New York Foreigners’ Mission Society, who was her sponsor before the authorities, brought her to join her husband. 

Loo Lin met his wife at the Grand Central Station, accompanied by a party of his Christianized Chinese friends. Husband and wife kissed in true Occidental fashion. Mrs. Loo Lm was dressed in blue clothes of a sober cut, not unlike the Salvation Army uniform. She took a great interest in her husband’s restaurant, and spent her first hour at home in inspecting his kitchen.

New York Tribune, September 23, 1903
Loo Linn Gets His Wife
Chinese Woman Arrives in Mott-st. and Is Happy.
After a separation of five years, Loo Linn, the proprietor of the Man [sic] Far Low restaurant, at No. 14 Mott-st., and his faithful young wife were reunted [sic] last evening at the Grand Central Station. The story is a romance of the Chinese immigration laws. …

Columbia Republican (New York), October 1, 1903
Spoke in Greendale.
First Chinese Woman That Many Have Seen Around Here.
The people of Greenport had an unusual treat last Sunday evening. Mr and Mrs Loo Lin, formerly of Canton and now of New York, spoke and sang in the Greendale Reformed church both in English and Chinese. Mr Loo Lin has made his home in this country for several years. He is the prosperous proprietor of a high class Chinese restaurant at 14 Mott Street, New York city. Mrs Loo Lin has been for some time a Bible reader in Canton. She desired to join her husband in this country but such is the stringency of the law excluding Chinese that it is only after months of waiting in Montreal that she has at last been enabled to enter as a Christian worker. She expects to do Christian work and teaching among the Chinese women and children of New York, of whom there are more than a hundred. Mr Loo Lin has the bearing of a Christian gentleman, while his wife, the first Chinese woman that many around here have seen, has the fair face and gentle manner that proclaim the lady. They are at present the guests of Mr and Mrs Seaman Miller of Germantown and New York, and it was through their kindness that the people of Greenport enjoyed and profited by this unusual exercise.

New York Sun, October 11, 1903
Comes From China to Teach
Mrs. Loo Lin’s Mission to Her Countrywomen Here.


New York Sun, June 29, 1904
New China Domestic.
Loo Lin, the Father of a Nine Pounder Eligible for the Presidency.
Four Chinamen were standing in front of Loo Lin’s place at 14 Mott street early yesterday morning. Loo Lin is one of Chinatown’s most prosperous and popular merchants.

A little man in homespun turned into Mott street from Chatham Square. The yellow skin of his chubby face was puckered into folds with a smile. He looked velly happy and velly proud.

There were nudges and gestures and a wise wagging of head among the four Chinamen in front of 14. They advanced to meet the little man with a smile and to meet the little man with a smile and stopped in front of him in a businesslike way. He stopped also, widened his smile, closed his eyes in a way suggestive of a wink and said something that didn’t sound at all like a description of a newly born Chinese boy. The little man was Loo Lin.

Soon afterward the smoke of burning joss sticks floated in thick clouds from the windows of Loo Lin’s place and from the windows of the places of his friends in Mott street. Peacock feathers and other things of many colors suggestive of joy and prosperity appeared one the balconies and a crowd filed into Loo Lin’s restaurant where they jabbered congratulations, took more than a few drinks of white stuff, which looked like gin, but wasn’t, and ate rice. It’s pretty certain that no other little Chinese upon his arrival in this country, ever raised so variegated a fuss in Chinatown as little Loo. It’s pretty certain also that Loo Lin never knew that he had so many friends till yesterday.

The blow-out cost him many dollars. The youngster—none pounds—arrived at Loo Lin’s home in Brooklyn last Sunday night, but yesterday was the first time Loo Lin had appeared in Chinatown since the event. The four friends who stood in front of his place representing other Chinamen with appetites, had been on the watch over since the report of the new arrival reached Mott street.

The mother has been in this country for about two years. When she came over she was held for several months by the immigration authorities in San Francisco and Canada and Loo Lin had much more trouble in getting her free from them than he had had in winning her affection. 


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Wednesday, March 6, 2024

Graphics: Dining at 14 Mott Street in New York Chinatown, Part 1: 1885–1898


October 11, 1884. The entrance to 14 Mott Street 
is seen next to the raised left hand holding an object.
16 Mott Street is left; its stairs parallel with street.

Wong Chin Foo wrote two articles for the Chicago Daily News. The restaurant at 14 Mott Street was described as a Delmonico

January 10, 1885, page 3
The Chinese in America.
Special to the Chicago Daily News.
Chinatown, New York City, Jan. 7.—Nothing gives the average Mongolian more pleasure than the fact that his civilization and that of the western barbarians are daily approaching nearer and nearer. And we are doing it, and doing it in a way that would bring a blush to the cheek of that mythic creature of the American imagination, the brass monkey. Ten years ago we Chinese were moral and pious (more or less). To-day we have all the modern improvements and accomplishments. We have with considerable trouble erected temples to Bacchus (or Silenus), Venus, Morpheus, and Fortunatus. I am uncertain, being a so-called almond-eyed heathen myself, as to whether my mythologic references are correct. What I mean is that in Chinatown to-day we have bar-rooms and beer saloons, beds of asphodel, opium-joints, and gambling houses ad infinitum. What is more, their fame has spread about, and the lounger and man-about-town daily drop in to interview or investigate the variegated attractions. On Monday I met two well-known lawyers and a state senator who were vainly endeavoring to study the Chinese elephant. They were endeavoring to learn something from an ignorant laundryman. They understood no Chinese and he no English. When I arrived upon the scene they had concluded that he was a lunatic, and he that they were drunken hoodlums. A moment’s explanation settled affairs, and we went off and dined at the Chinese Delmonico’s, 14 Mott street. Our bill of fare, though admirable, was misunderstood, and consequently not quite so much enjoyed as it might and should have been. What it really was, and what my friends in their hearts believed it was, is well shown in the following tables:

What they thought it was. What it really was.
1. Hashed kitten. Hashed beef, orange, orange-
peel, ginger, and curry

2. Stewed puppy. Ragout of chicken, celery, 
bamboo shoots, and young 
onion

3. Stewed worms. Hashed macaroni with egg, 
cochineal, beef, and chicken
liver
4. Bisque of rats. Chicken soup.

5. Mouse pie. Pate of quail, from which the
head, feet, and most of the 
bones had been removed.

6. Spitz-dog en tortue. Dragon-dish sauce with rice, 
black beans, and shalotts.
The Chinese names for these delicacies (I give them because perhaps some of your readers may desire to try the same experiment) are: 1, Yo-Yo-an; 2, Gai-bien; 3, Chow-mien; 4, Gai-Gan; 5, Chow-an-Tszun; 6, Yung-Goi.
I commend this bill of fare in the highest terms. It represents the culmination of the Chinese cuisine; just as the bisque of crabs, the Chateaubriand, the filet de sole, and the pate de foie gras are emblematic of French gastronomic art and science. And next to my own race the French are the best cooks of the universe. Restaurants are well enough, so far as they go. We have also Chinese barbers, tailors, pawn-brokers, grocers, druggists, doctors, lawyers, musicians, officials and journalists (I say lawyers and journalists in the plural), for thus far I am the only one in the trades referred to, and am consequently sui genesis). We have, also—and I regret to say it—a Chinese cut-throat and thief. But we made short work of him. The moment we learned of his depredations we offered rewards for his arrest, rewards for his conviction, and some of us rewards for his death. Those who are responsible for the last regard him as a disgrace to our race, and desire to have him and his name wiped out. And, though it may be opposed to your American notions, they’ll do it, too.

Besides the rewards, detectives were employed and committees appointed to hunt the culprit down. How well the work was done you already know by the telegraphic reports. The crime was committed Friday, and no clew was visible. Monday the criminal was delivered to the police, and, furthermore, all the necessary evidence was put into the hands of the district attorney, so that in a public letter the next day he thanked us for our public spirit and enterprise. Can any American community show a similar example? Yet I feel sorry for the poor devil. He was a man of heroic mold, and in the Jeannette and Greely relief expeditions to the arctic circle displayed a courage and devotion fitting the grandest cause. His downfall and ruin are attributable to only one thing—the tiger. He played and lost all. He borrowed, begged, and pawned—and lost. Then, crazy for food, crazy for the necessary cash with which to gamble again, he robbed and murdered—and lost again. In the greatest and richest city of the world this uneducated, unintelligent lion of a man was allowed to gamble day and night under the very eyes of the police, and then waste his life, his substance, and his future. 

We are much amused at the tone of the hoodlum California press. It lauds the anti-Chinese law to the skies, and day by day declares that the immigration has ceased. The truth is the very opposite. The Chinaman who can afford it sails straight to San Francisco and pays the United States inspector $50 and is put through. The poorer or more economical coolie goes to Vancouver’s island by sailing vessel, and skips across to the soil of Uncle Sam. Last night, at the club-rooms 16 Mott street, a newly arrived immigre said: “New law d— nonsense; only job to give money to inspector. Fat man with big mustache wanted $500. I d— fool and give him $250 and come along in all light.”

I am glad to see, however, that a better feeling is growing up here in the east. When people read the police reports and find that only one Chinaman is arrested in 50,000, and then for a trifling offense; when the county democracy appoints one of my race a New York policeman; when a Chinese interpreter is attached to the courts, a Chinese editor to the great dailies, and a Chinese contributor to the leading weeklies and monthlies, you can safely bet that the anti-Chinese craze is dying out and that we flowery-kingdomites are going to be somebody and have some say amid this vast mixture of Germans, Irish, negroes, French, Italians, English, Swedes, and Yankees which make up the American people. New York has almost learned the lesson that ere long will be taught to the United States. A Chinaman who has brains, education, and honesty will get along just as well as the citizen of any other land. You can’t keep him out and you can’t keep him down. Make friends with him, show him that he is an integral part of the nation, and some unborn Ah Sin will occupy the chair soon to be held by our friend Mr. Cleveland. 

June 29, 1885, page 2
Chinese Cooks and Cooking.
Special to the Chicago Daily News.
New York, June 22.—In the last two years New York fashionable society has cultivated a new craze—Christianizing and educating John Chinaman. Every church patronized by the creme de la creme has its Chinese class, its Chinese teachers, its Chinese night-school, Like most crazes, it accomplishes but little in the way sought. It has done much, however, in turning attention to Chinatown and in making known many things that heretofore were celestial mysteries. Among these is the Mongolian restaurant. It is safe to say that in 1880 not more than a hundred New Yorkers had ever dined in oriental style. In 1885 the number is far up among the thousands. The average American when he first approaches the Chinese table, does so in fear and trembling. Vague presentiments of ragouts of rats, mayonnaises of mice and similar luxuries float through his mind. Nine times out of ten he leaves table with the conviction that he has learned something, and that the almond-eyed sons of the queue are the best cooks in the world. So he goes again, and with him brings two or three inquisitive or adventurous friends.

There are six Chinese restaurants proper in the Mongolian settlement. Each is famous for some dish or style of cooking. The Delmonico of the number is Yu-ung-Fang-Lau, at 14 Mott street. Here repair Canton importers and Hong Kong merchants, Mongolian visitors from ’Frisco, flush gamblers, and wealthy laundrymen. All of the restaurants are run on the same plan. A plain wood floor, swept and scrubbed hourly till it fairly shines; simple pine or walnut tables, small stools, crimson banners and mottoes on the walls, and a lavish display of curious porcelain vessels in racks and stands characterize one and all. 

You have never dined, reader, under such auspices. With two friends you enter Yu-ung’s and perch upon a stool near a large square table. The next moment the attendant has put down in front of you a tea-pot filled with fresh, boiling tea, a tea-cup one-third the size of those used by Americans, two ebony chop-sticks, a porcelain spoon, a tiny liqueur-bowl, and a saucer filled with a chocolate fluid called se-yu. This is a hybrid between  salt and dilute Worcestershire sauce. From its name comes the familiar British term soy. The first course is cold roast chicken, served with pickled perfumed turnip. The flesh is tender, snow-white and free from sauce. It is cut into small pieces, but these are arranged so as to preserve the outline of the fowl. You seize a piece with your chop-sticks, dip in the sauce, and then eat it in solemn silence. The next course is fresh fish, steamed, boiled, or fried whole and covered with a dark and very aromatic sauce. With it is served a bowl heaped to overflowing with rice. It is cooked as only the Chinese can—each grain soft and tender but distinct from its fellows. Next appears a bowl of chicken-soup, on whose surface float a few thin slices of some green vegetables. Then follow roast duck with pickled carrot, chow-chop-sue (ragout of chicken liver, lean pork, bamboo-tip, celery, bean-shoots, and onion), dried fish, steamed chopped pork, macaroni and chicken, and dainty dumplings filled with spiced hashed meats. 

With the foods are served tiny pitchers of liquors. One is a brown rice arrack, the second a date brandy, and the third an orange gin. The nearest approaches to these in the American bar-room are Batavia arrack, pear brandy, and green curacoa. 

All the dishes are well cooked and served, and all are a novelty to the most blase gourmet. The made dishes especially are new and strange.

The next surprise is the bill. The same or an equivalent dinner at an average restaurant would cost a party of three seasons at least $5.50; in a firs-class hotel, $8.50. At Yu Ung’s, however, the cost is but $2.48. Of course the Mongolian has luxuries, and pays for them “Allee same Melican man.” A duck half boiled and then stuffed with almonds, chestnuts, raisins, watermelon seeds, imported spices, and roasted is worth $2. A suckling pig similarly treated brings $5 to $7. Bird’s-nest soup at 50 cents a portion, shark’s fins fricasseed at 40, dragon-fish ragout at 35, and sea-worm at 75 are other instances in point. It is not uncommon for a Chinese dinner to cost $5 a plate, exclusive of wine, and on state occasions $40 a head has been the price paid by the giver of the feast.

At these great dinners a feature of the cooking is the element of surprise. A dish of apparently hard-boiled eggs is placed before you. You open one and it is filled with a purplish custard, flavored with violets, a second has a brown filling, colored and flavored with chocolate, and a third a rose-tinted and perfumed cream. A second dish of eggs will contain assorted ices and ice-creams. Again, the attendant deposits before you what seems a well-boiled trout. Your chopstick removes the fish head and skin at one touch and discloses a long dumpling filled with delicious chopped meat or game. Another charming dish consists apparently of small, well-fried potatoes. Each one, however, is a thin shell of flue, thoroughly cooked dough, containing vegetables, poultry, fish, game, or meat.

While dining you have a good opportunity to study the domestic habits of the Mongolian race. However crowded the restaurant may be, quiet reigns, broken only by the orders of the steward and waiters to the cooks and the “thank you” of the guests. In English the latter practice would become monotonous. In Chinese there are seven expressions for our one, and a happy variety therefore exists. They eat leisurely, and almost invariably leave a portion of their food untouched. Each, as he beings his meal, pours a tablespoonful of tea into his cup, and then, by a dexterous swing of the wrist, throws the liquid in a semi-circle on the floor. The custom, or ceremony, seems to have had a religious meaning in remote antiquity, but to-day is kept up for luck, or perhaps from mere habit.

Another feature is the simplicity of their diet. At four tables the meal being eaten consists of tea, a bowl of rice, a small fish, a piece of chicken, and a saucer of sliced perfumed pork. In ordering a dish they order by value only. It is “10 cents fish,” “15 cents chicken,” and never “plate of roast beef,”“piece of pie,” etc., as with Americans. But few indulge in stimulants. Those who do combine into pools of two, three, or four, and them order “18 cents arrack.” The whole amount is hardly more than the straight whisky of a Chicago rounder.

The kitchen is not only visible to the guest, but is in reality a portion of the dining-hall. All the utensils and paraphernalia are before your eyes; even the meats, vegetables, and the cooks themselves are practically on exhibition. To those who have believed that the celestial cooked in some primitive way a visit to and inspection of his culinary arrangements is a revelation.

The Chinese kitchen greatly resembles the American. A sink with an unlimited supply of fresh water, a stove, and a table, are articles common to both. Besides these it has, what every civilized kitchen should have, a butcher’s chopping-block, a pastry-table, and a condiment-case. The pastry-table differs from the ordinary kind in having a hard-wood top of extra thickness. The rolling-pins that accompany it are three in number, of hard wood, three inches in diameter, and about five feet long. The condiment-case is a flat-box about three by two feet, and usually contains the following: salt, black, white, and red pepper, mustard, dried lemon and orange peel, ginger, both plain and pickled, saffron, soy, vinegar, lemon-juice, garlic onion, cassia buds, tamarind extract, sweet oil, walnut catchup, tarragon, savory, thyme, mint, and dried celery. These make up the condiments used in ordinary cooking. On great occasions other and more expensive articles are employed.

Culinary utensils have one peculiarity. Almost all are globular and made in one piece. The Chinese cook dislikes the angles, corners, and edges of American pans and pots, as these involve much more trouble in cleaning and are liable to hold dirt or drying organic matter beyond the reach of a dish-cloth of a dish-brush. Most pans and pots are segments of a globe two or three feet in diameter. Kitchen spoons, strainers, cake-turners, stirrers, and scoops are made with the same curvature, so that the cook has no difficulty in managing any article he may be cooking.

Fires are made of both coal and wood, though the latter is universally preferred. They are built generally inside, but at times outside, the stove. In roasting, smoking, or drying any food the article is suspended by a wire in the center of the fire-pit, and the fire is built on a pile of bricks just outside the ash-pit door. The draught carries the flame and heated air through the fire-pit to the chimney, and so accomplishes the work to be done. Where slow roasting would dry the juices of the food the article is first suspended over a very hot, sharp fire until the skin is browned, and is then treated in the way just described.

Chinese cooks vary from their American colleagues in other ways. The keeping of raw meats is not tolerated in a first-class celestial kitchen, ice-box or no ice-box. A chicken or duck is carefully kept alive inn a little pen until an hour before dinner, and is then killed. Pork, beef, and mutton are cooked as soon as delivered by the butcher. The reason is that in warm climates raw meats turn bad and decay in a few hours, while, when cooked, especially roasted, they would keep as many days. The empyreumatic oils of the smoke in roasting act as a preservative, and will keep duck and pork sweet and wholesome for more than a fortnight. In fact, prominent Chinese exports are smoked duck and pork, which are sent and sold all over the world. 

Nearly all Chinese kitchen utensils are provided with a hook, ring, and eye in order to hang up. Over the stoves is an iron bar or heavy wire to which spoon-stirrer and cake-turner are alike attached. Even knives and cleavers, forks and prongs, are treated in this way. In a good Chinese kitchen every article is required to be spotless, ready for use, and visible to the guest. 

Business begins about 7 o’clock and continues till midnight. Despite the small prices charged, it pays fairly from an American and very well from a Chinese standpoint. The proprietor of a good restaurant seldom clears less than $1,000 a year. In five years he can return to his native village and there be a social mugwump for the rest of his life. Many of them become Americanized and endeavor to live accordingly. Not long since Yu Ung said to a party of New Yorkers dining there:

“Melican man buy gal when he mally?”

“Yes, some do,” answered one of the party.

“All velly good!” said Yu Ung, with a grin of the most intense kind permitted by the Mongolian physiognomy. “Me quite lich. Got six thousand dollies in the bank; got a velly good business. Me velly good man. Me no dlink, no smoke, no gamble, no fight, no get mad. Me velly lonely, and want velly good, nice, little, pletty wife. You sabe heap gals. You tell them allee about me, and you say if she mally me give gal allee my money, be velly good husband, take good care of baby, and lettee wife do allee she please allee same Melican man.” It is reported that Yu Fung’s desires are soon to be gratified.

The Wayne County Herald (Honesdale, Pennsylvania), August 20, 1885, reprinted an article from the New York Sun.
Chop Scou.
Almost every day in the early morning a crowd of Chinamen can be seen buying fresh pork at the stalls in Washington market. The purchases range from five to fifty pounds in weight, and are selected with great care. Yesterday, among the Celestial buyers, the reporter ran across Fang Low, who is cook and steward for a large club in Chinatown. In a capacious basket, half full of green vegetables, Fang had twenty pounds of “fresh pig.”

“Me takee him home. Velly well, me smoke him,” said the bland Oriental. “You come ’long and see him.”

The reporter accompanied him to his kitchen, which is on the second floor of No. 14 Mott street. Here Fang went to work industriously. He washed the pork thoroughly, and with a sharp knife removed all the bone, cartilage, and skin. A second and more energetic washing ensued, after which the pork was cut into strips about fourteen inches long, four wide, and a half inch thick. The strips were laid in a pan, and over them was poured a brown fluid resembling Worcestershire sauce, in appearance and flavor. After a few minutes soaking in this aromatic bath, each strip was fastened to an iron rod by a wire hook. The rod was then laid across the open top of a brick oven, so that the strips hung suspended in what with Americans would be the fire pit. The top was then closely covered with pine boards. Outside of the oven on a pile of bricks built continuous with the ash door, Fang then made a very hot fire with small pieces of dry hickory wood. The draught, regulated by pieces of sheet iron on either side of the fire, carried the flame and smoke into the ash pit and thence through the fire pit into the chimney. In the bottom of the ash pit was a pan which received the melted fat from the strips of pork.

“Makee fire velly hot, pig cook quick and allee fat lun out,” said Fang. “Makee little fire, pig cook velly slow—two, thlee hour, and fat no lun out.”

The reporter tasted two pieces. One which had been quickly cooked was crisp, and in flavor half-way beteen [sic] well roasted chicken and a thoroughly cooked tenderloin. The other, which had been cooked three hours, was almost like first-class English breakfast bacon. The flavor of the sauce and of the hickory smoke, however, made both different from anything he had ever tasted.
“Chinaman call him chop scou,” remarked the cook, “and like him evely time. Like him heap much. Him velly cheap—little plate, 5 cent; big plate, 10 cent.”—N.Y., Sun.

The Daily Sentinel (Rome, New York), September 12, 1885, published the following.
The Second Chinese Baby in New York.
Last Friday Lo Chow, the junior member of the Chinese importing house of No. 5 Mott street became the father of a boy—the second Simon-pure Chinese child born in this city. Lo Chow’s wife boasts that her feet are only three inches long. Yesterday a party was held to name the child. The head of the infant was shaved in Mongolian style and the outline traced of the future cue. Friends and relatives made many presents to the child, including Jade bracelets, chain and lockets, girdle, anklets and necklaces. After the reception a feast was spead [sic] at the Chinese Delmonico’s (No. 14 Mott street,) where the consumption of shark’s fins, bamboo shoots and bird’s nest soup lasted until a late hour. The baby was named Foh Sheou, meaning endless prosperity.—N. Y. Tribune.

The New York Sun, May 30, 1886, reported the visit by Minister Chang Yen Moon. 
... A banquet was to have been given to the Minister at 14 Mott street last evening, but it was postponed. As the Minister will return to Washington in a day or two, the banquet may not take place during his visit. ...
Wong Chin Foo noted the changes in Chinatown for the New York World, September 6, 1886. It’s not clear if the restaurant at 14 Mott Street had a new owner and name. 
... Then 14 Mott street, the Chinese Delmonico, was refitted throughout with imported furniture and other delicious, and subsequently its bill of fare was changed and its high rates reduced. The owners sent out flaming colored posters. ...

Wong Chin Foo was the host of a dinner reported by the New York Sun, November 23, 1886. 
A Wrong Side Up Dinner.
Commissioner Andrews  Tackles a Bill of Fare from the Other Side of the World.
Excise Commissioner William S. Andrews, who has for years been ambitious to eat a regulation Chinese dinner, ate one last night and thinks that he will be able to get out to-day. Wong Chin Foo was his host. Dressed in an American derby and overcoat and other American things, Wong led the way to the Chinese chop house at 14 Mott street. The Commissioner was in evening dress. He brought along two New York friends to help him, and when they had mastered the chopsticks they drove right through fourteen courses of dinner without quailing. It took nearly three hours, and this was a bill of the performance:

1. Tea served in costly china cups.
2. Cake.
3. Lichee nuts.
4. Sweatmeats,
5. Roast duck.
6. Roast chicken.
7. Boned ducks feet fried with mushrooms, and bamboo shoots.
8. Chicken bones fried in lard until the bone was soft as the flesh, and dressed with Chinese sweet pickle, ginger and celery.
9. American pike fried, with mushrooms and water lily potato.
10. Cuttlefish, with Chinese sweet turnips and saifun beans.
11. Tchowmien macaroni, flour stewed with chicken, celery and mushrooms.
12. Chinese sausages, composition uncertain.
13. Citron soup with shrimps.
14. Lotus seed and apricot seed soup.

Commissioner Andrews washed it all down with three kinds of Chinese wine. One was the nomaidayo pear wine, the second a white wine distilled from rice, and the third Chinese gin made of apricot seed.

An article published in the New York Herald, February 26, 1889. 
Dong Fong’s Soft Snap. 
“Ya-che-fu-haa-a, Yang se Kiang hua so y ba-a.” 
These mellifluous words reached my ears while I was standing in the corridor of the County Court House yesterday. The Celestial who had addressed the remark to a fellow countryman was directing his footsteps toward the equity branch of the Court of Common pleas and I followed, as I translated his remark to mean “There will be some fun at the trial in there.”

Judge Van Hoesen looked down from the bench upon a score of clean shaven Chinese mugs, which belonged to the distinguished men interested in the suit of Dong Fong against Dong Ing, Dong Ah Chew, Ong Ping, Ah Mow, Leon Coon, Chung Yack, Willie Hung, Yuck Yon and other members of the firm of Hong Wah Hing Kee, doing a general business in teas, medicines, swallow nests, glacé rat tails and other delicacies, at No. 14 Mott street. Mr. Fong, who is a big boned gentleman of the brunette type, wearing a faded coal, with voluminous sleeves, and a china bracelet, was at one time a member of the firm, and he enjoyed the duties assigned to him so much that when he received a vigorous kick that sent him flying out of the business his feelings were deeply hurt and he retained the law firm of Booraem, Hamilton & Beckett to sue for an accounting. It all came about in this wise. Mr. Fong borrowed $200 from Ho Que to invest in the firm. When he was asked to repay the loan he stood Mr. Que off. Mr. Que induced Yuck Yan to give him the $200 and had Mr. Fong’s name scratched off the firm’s books and Mr. Yon’s put in its place.

Fong said on the witness stand that he had originally borrowed $260, and had kept $60 in his own pocket to spend. Ah Mow, who seemed to boss the business, started him to work at a soft snap. The firm ran a game for treats in the basement, and Fong was given $30 a day for about five weeks to play with and to treat customers. One day he advanced some money to a friend and Ah Mow kicked. The result was that Fong drew out of the game. Fong referred to Mr. Mow yesterday as the biggest skin that ever was. The trial will be continued to-day.

Me Hong Low, also spelled Mee Hong Low, was the name of restaurants in New York City, Pawtucket, Rhode Island and San Francisco, California

Harper’s Weekly, November 22, 1890. 14 Mott Street, 
a four-story building, is the fourth building from the left.

14 Mott Street on the far right;
date unknown

The New York City Me Hong Low was located at 14 Mott Street and, I believe, was in business in the early 1890s. Proceedings of the Commissioners of the Sining Fund of the City of New York 1895, 1896 and 1897 listed several establishments that paid fines “for Violations of the Sanitary Code or Health Laws”. On December 19, 1894, “Mee Hong Low” paid five dollars.

The address of Me Hong Low was mentioned, near the bottom of the articles, in the New York Sun, November 10, 1895, and East-Hampton Star (New York), December 13, 1895.

New York Sun

East-Hampton Star

The Century Magazine, November 1896, published an illustration, by F. H. Lungren, of Mott Street.

14 Mott Street restaurant on the right;
Hong Yuen Restaurant at 16 Mott Street.
Scan from the author’s collection

The New York Journal, January 21, 1897, reported the following dinner.
Bet and Ate Birds’ Nests
Southern Pacific Officials Dined in Chinatown by Chinese Six Companies’ Officials

Members of the Six Companies gave a dinner last night to several officials of the Southern Pacific Railway Company at the establishment of Me Hong Low, Sing Kee & Co., No. 14 Mott street. 

The dinner was in payment of a wager to which the principals were Lee B. Lok, of the firm of Lung Quong On, and Mr. John D. Newman. Lee Lok is a nephew of Lee Choup, the high priest of the joss house in Chinatown. Choup is a cousin of Li Hung Chang, and is a big official in the Six Companies. 

The menu included birds’ nests, sharks’ fins and Celestial delicacies—in all thirty-seven courses.

After dinner the party were shown through the temple and the Chinese theatre. 

The New York Herald, August 15, 1897, wrote about Colonel Robert M. Floyd’s dinner for Professor Charles G. D. Roberts at Me Hong Low. 
Gave His Friends “Si Wo Opp.”
Colonel Robert Mitchell Floyd, a retired merchant whose home is on Jersey City Heights, gave a Chinese dinner yesterday in honor of Professor Charles G. D. Roberts, a Canadian writer and poet, who recently came to this city to reside.

Colonel Floyd entertained his guests, twelve in number, at No. 14 Mott street. They sat down at two o’clock, and devoted the next three hours to Chinese delicacies. This is what they ate: 

[Chinese characters in four columns] 
A Key to the Chart

For the benefit of readers who may not care to read this bill of fare it may be stated that Colonel Floyd’s dinner consisted to twelve courses. The first included almonds, watermelon seeds, lichee nuts, peanuts, fresh lichee, pineapple, wheel fruit, pears. Canton ginger, Cumquat oranges, melon rind and chow-chow.The guests came under the wire after this round, in seventeen minutes. They next tried some “bok ne quay chow,” with “no omi zoo.” This course consisted of fowl in the nest and white rice wine. It was followed with “yong yee chee,” which tasted better under the English name of shark fin rolls. The “si wo opp,” which was served next, was declared by all present to be the best Chinese bird in the bush they had had since the visit of Li Hung Chang to this country.

The next four courses consisted of “neyung dun goo,” with “mow gung zoo,” “guy yic,” “yen wa gong” and “suey be gop,” with “moy guen sco.” While all this was under way Colonel Floyd’s guests were partaking of mushrooms and chopped fish, with wine of the roots; stuffed chicken wings, bird’s nest soup and boiled pigeon, with rose wine.

On the Last Four Laps.

Four courses remained to come after four o'clock. These consisted of “abalone yung bow ye,“ ”gow gook chop suey,” “linsin gong gow atzer” and “sue sin char.” All of which, being expressed in ordinary English, means that Colonel Floyd and his guests finished their dinner with boiled abalones, stuffed with pork; beef chop suey, bean sprouts, water chestnuts and boiled rice, white nut broth, sweet cakes and water lily tea.

Colonel Floyd gave a similar dinner in April last to forty friends. His guests yesterday, besides Professor Roberts, were John J. Rooney, Francis Bellamy, Duffield Osborne, Robert Wentworth Floyd William C. Roberts, Joseph Bayan, Whidden Graham, Stephen B. Stanton, John Find, Patrick O’Mara and Vincent S. Cook.

The dinner was served on a small, round table, about which the guests seated themselves on high stools. The table was of a sire usually used to accommodate four persons.
New York Herald

The New York Times reported the same dinner and its story was reprinted, to some degree, or mentioned in the Watertown Daily Times (New York), August 21, 1897; Buffalo Evening News (New York), August 25, 1897, “A Stuffed Novelist”; and Vancouver Daily World (British Columbia, Canada), September 1, 1897, “Roberts, the Poet and Novelist, Entertained at a Chinese Dinner”. 
A Dinner in Chinatown
The Peculiar Pungency of Rose Wine Described

Shark Fins, Nut Broth, Bird’s Nest Soup, Water Lily Tea, and Other Oriental Dainties Offered for Occidental Appreciation.

New York Times:
A Chinese dinner of 12 courses was served yesterday afternoon in honor of Prof. Charles G. D. Roberts, the Canadian novelist and post, who is one of the founders of the Canadian club of this city. Col. Robert Mitchell Floyd was the host.

One of the events of the occasion was rose wine, which came with the eighth course. It looks like, spring water, is served in delicate clear glass receptacles about the size and shape of large rose leaves and has the lifting power of a jackscrew and the explosive force of dynamite. As it touches the palate all feeling departs, and the world vanishes for an instant. The drinker then becomes conscious of his throat and knows that it has become a spot of scorching flame. His lungs go out of business and his breath ceases. As the heal runs like electric flashes down his windpipe and through bis body and limbs, he knows that he is yet on the earth and living, and his entire being is permeated with a faint, evanescent suggestion of the breath of a living rose with the dew on it.

Then he draws in the good, cool air wipes his eyes, clears the perspiration from his brow, and says, “Thank you, yes,” as his neighbor proffers another libation of the beverage from the curved stem, not much thicker than a knitting needle, of a small and slender porcelain tea pot. The drinking of it is a progress through oblivion and fire for the moment of half conscious existence as the exhalation of roses.

The banquet began with nuts, fruits, and preserves, and ended with white nut broth, with sweet cakes and water nut broth, with sweet cakes and water lily tea. It was a new experience for most of the guests and was enjoyed. The scene was the restaurant of Me Hong Low on the second story of 14 Mott street. Between the courses everybody rose from the big round table and walked about or sat on the veranda and looked down upon the queer life in the narrow and crooked thoroughfares of Chinatown. At first they looked up at the windows of the opposite tenements where some rich Chinamen live, and their American wives and children were visible, clad in garments of many colors and fabrics and oriental fashion, but the heads of those establishments quickly drove their families out of sight and mutual curiosity was balked.

Col. Floyd makes a fad of Chinese cookery. He claims it is really the perfection of the gastronomic art, and is eager as a missionary in inculcating his opinions among his friends and introducing the remarkable things he likes into their systems. He had with him yesterday, besides Prof. Roberts, John Jerome Dooney, Vincent S. Cooke, Floyd, William Cannon Roberts, Joseph Bayan, Widden Graham, Stephen B. Stanton, John Find, an Americanized Chinese merchant and Patrick O’Mara, the botanical expert. They talked of Keats and ate boiled abalones stuffed with pork—“abalone yung bow ye”—and soften the contrast with rose wine; discussed Ibsen and high art over bean sprouts and water chestnuts with boiled rice, the same being “gow gook chop-suey,” and made of themselves perambulating warehouses of such assorted materials as wheel fruit, shark fins, Canton ginger, bird’s nest soup, chow-chow, and melon rind, broiled pigeon, stuffed chicken wings, mushroom, and chopped fish.

The bill of fare was printed in English with the Chinese names in English characters on an opposite page, and in Chinese characters for the guidance of the caterer, in the middle. It included all the best and most esteemed dainties of a high class Chinese menu, was prepared by a chef who would wear a blue ribbon if he was a Frenchman, and was served by a corps of Chinese waiters. Mr. Find explained the composition of the various dishes, and Mr. O’Mara strove conscientiously to identify and classify the vegetable portions. Chopsticks were used exclusively.

The consumption of the feast began at 2 o’clock and lasted until the big gongs were booming and the huge paper lanterns were lighted in the Joes house upstairs, and the sidewalks below were crowded with chattering Chinaman, resting after their day’s work; the clang of the cymbals in the Doyers street theatre was mingling with the shrill notes of Moody and Sankey hymns from the Salvation Army girls in the mission house. Then the company dispersed reluctantly, and the Chinamen along the sidewalks exchanged comments and criticisms, probably of a derisive and deprecatory character upon the invaders of their realm. Mr. Hong Long was a proud man and bowed to the floor in recognition of the merits of Melican men who could appreciate Chinese cookery and carry away in excellent style much white rice wine, wine of the roots, rose wine, and water lily tea. He took to himself the analect of Mencius printed on the menu—“The superior man has three delights * * * That he can get from the whole empire the most talented individuals and nourish them.”
Watertown Daily Times

There are seven restaurants in Chinatown which rank as first-class places, and four others of the second or lower class, some of which would more properly be called mere eating houses. Those of the first-class are the following: Hon Heong Lau, 11 Mott Street; King Heong Lau, 16 Mott Street; Me Heong Lau, 14 Mott Street; Way Heong Lau, 20 Mott Street; Gui Ye Quan, 34 Pell Street; Mon Li Won, 24 Pell Street, and Kum Sun, 16 Pell Street. The menu and prices charged in these several places are substantially the same. They each serve a variety of dishes classified according to the price charged as per the following. ...
According to the New York World, January 25, 1898, the Year of the Dog occurred the same day as a solar eclipse. 
Ominous New Year in Chinatown.
At Its Beginning the Sun Was Eclipsed—No Man Knows What May Happen.

Gloom Over Mott Street.
Baked Meats Were Offered in the Joss-House, but Who Can Tell What Foreign Devils Will Do?

Some Men Would Celebrate.
The Wiser Sought to Propitiate the Gods, Doubtless Angry and After Vengeance.

The shadow of the dragon still lies on Chinatown. 
The New Year has come and the face of the sun was hidden.

An evil portent lies in the eclipse, and the German fleet before Kiaochau is no more an ill-omen than the death here of the celebrated Pell street goat.

So gloom rests on Chinatown. ...

... An occasional burst of sound from behind some closed door told that a braver spirit still made effort to celebrate the day. But it was short-lived. In the Kwon [sic] Wah Tai, at No. 14 Mott street, a reed-pipe blatted and shrilled and wailed at odd moments, and a listless crowd stood about wondering at the man who so tempted the anger of the gods. 

In the Me Hong Low restaurant trade was at a standstill, and the feast dishes turned cold untasted. Along the curb an occasional throng watched with uninterested faces for what might happen, and even in the temple the tom-toms rested at evening. 

For the new year had come and gone in Chinatown, and gloom hung in the streets.
The entrance of 16 Mott Street

The shooting of a Me Hong Low cook was reported in these newspapers.

New York Evening Journal, March 28, 1898
Got Shot for a Bad Chop Soy. 
Four Cherry Street Toughs Create panic in a Chinatown Restaurant.

Chef Quong Won Dying.
Shot Down for Protesting in Me Hong Low & Co.’s Mott Street Place.

Wants to Be Buried in China.

Because four visitors from Cherry street objected to the “chop suey” he had prepared for them, Quong Won, chef in the Chinese restaurant of Me Hong Low & Co., No. 14 Mott street, was fatally shot in the breast this morning, and for two hours Chinatown was in an uproar. 

Four young men entered the restaurant at 8 o’clock and called for something to eat. Charley Low, one of the proprietors, took their orders.

One of the customers tasted the “chop suey” and then threw the dish to the floor, saying uncomplimentary things about Chinese cookery in Cherry street dialect.

From behind the kitchen screen Quong Won heard the discussion and came out to protest.

Diners Fled in Terror.

“My chop soy velly good,” said Quong Won, and then the Cherry street heathen fell upon him and proprietor Low. 

Several of the Chinese waiters went to the assistance of their fellows, and in the fight that followed tables and chairs were overturned and the other late diners fled in terror. 

Suddenly one of the visitors drew a revolver, and a second later Quong Won dropped to the floor with a groan.

Then the four assailants escaped. 

Policeman Peter Carter arrived after the fight was over and found only hysterical Chinese and the prostate Quong Won, who faintly expressed the wish that he be interred beside the bones of his ancestors, near Hong Kong.

Thinks Quong Will Die.

Dr. Rodman, of the Hudson Street Hospital, who came with the ambulance, said Quong would probably die, but Proprietor Low refused to have him removed. 

Detectives Finn and Bennett, of the Elizabeth street station, are looking for the dying chef’s assailants. ...

New York Evening Post, March 28, 1898

A Chinaman Shot During a Quarrel.

Quong Won, employed as cook in a Chinese restaurant at No. 14 Mott Street, was shot in his left side at half-past two o’clock this morning in the restaurant by an unknown white man, who escaped. Four men refused to pay their bill, a quarrel ensued, and in it Quong Won was shot. The four men then ran away. The wound was not serious.

New York Press, March 29, 1898
Bill Paid with Bullet
White Men Relished Chinese Food, But Not the Price It Cost.
“If you don’t like the grub, shoot the cook.”

This was once a favorite motto in Wild Western restaurants, but it was disastrous to cooks—of the cook didn’t get his gun out first. Although no such motto was displayed in the Chinese restaurant at No. 14 Mott street yesterday, four white men, names unknown, put the rule into effect and Now Quong Wong, the chef of the establishment, carried a bullet in his left side.

The men entered the restaurant and after dining on chop suey, lichee nuts and other delicacies, refused to pay the bill. In the fight which followed one of the white men drew a revolver and fired it at Quong Wong. He is not seriously hurt. The four men escaped.

New York Sun, March 29, 1898
Chinese Cook Shot
Badly Wounded by a Customer Who Didn’t Like His Cooking.
Quong Wong, one of the best cooks in Chinatown, was shot early yesterday morning in No Hung Low’s [sic] restaurant at 14 Mott street. Four Chinamen entered the restaurant a little before 3 o’clock and called for several Chinese dishes, which Wong essayed to cook. When the food was put before them they insisted that it was not properly cooked, and refused to eat it.

The proprietor called upon his cook to defend his cooking. An argument resulted between Quong Wong and the four Chinamen, which ended in one of them drawing a revolver and shooting Wong in the left breast. 

When Policeman Carter arrived the customers had made their escape. Carter called an ambulance for Wong, who appeared to be badly hurt. When it arrived a number of his countrymen barricaded the door and refused to allow him to be taken away. The wounded man was finally left to the ministrations of native physicians. 

The stabbing of a Me Hong Low waiter was reported in the following newspapers.

New York Evening Telegram, November 9, 1898
Chinaman Found Dying with Stab
Shue White, with a Terrible Wound in the Neck, Taken to Hudson Street Hospital.

His Assailant Not Known
Every Celestial Had Vanished from the Scene, a Restaurant, When Authorities Arrived.

Delay in Telling Police
Hospital Failed to Give Notice of the Mott Street Mystery.

With a terrible stab wound in his neck, evidently made with a large knife, Chue White, a Chinese waiter, fifty-six years old, was found in a dying condition early this morning in a restaurant at No. 12 Mott street. Because of his condition the man was unable to tell who stabbed him, and the police, so far, have been unable to find any clew that will aid them in unraveling the mystery. They have been greatly handicapped in their efforts to find White’s assailant, because the finding of the man was not reported from the Hudson Street Hospital for several hours.

White was employed in the restaurant where he was attacked. Me Hong Low was his employer. He lived next door, at No. 14 Mott street, and had been at work all the evening, serving chop suey, shark’s fins and other delicacies to Chinamen of the district, but shortly after midnight, when an ambulance was summoned not a person was in the place. 

Dr. Bailey, the ambulance surgeon, found the Chinaman lying on the floor with a pool of blood that had flowed from the wound in his neck near him. The man was so exhausted from loss of blood that he could not speak. The physician saw the patient’s condition was critical and hastened with him to the hospital without making any inquiry about the manner in which he had been hurt.

When Sergeant McNamara, of the Eldridge street station, learned of the case it was nearly three o’clock, and even then the word came from a boy and not from the hospital. The boy said a Chinaman had been stabbed in a fight at No. 12 Mott street, but could not give any particulars. Detective Brennan hastened to the restaurant where he found everything as quiet as if the place had never been inhabited.

He woke up Me Hong Low and several other Chinamen, but all, with the best English they could command, declared they knew nothing about any fight. Half a dozen detectives were put on the case at daylight, but, owing to the inborn reticence of every Chinaman in Mott street, they have been unable to learn anything. White’s condition was reported, as critical at the hospital this morning.

New York Press, November 10, 1898

Chu Wy’s Sad Soul Hungers for Cash
Will Ask Coin in Advance in Chinatown Restaurant

New Rule Made Because Customers with Election “Jags” Got Too Gay with Him.

After Chu Wy recovers from his injuries and leaves the Hudson Street Hospital to go back to his duties as head waiter in Me, Hong, Low & Co.’s restaurant, at No. 14 Mott street, he will put a new rule into effect.

Chu Wy is not able to prepare “copy” for a sign painter at present, but he will have that rule printed in big black letters and hung all about the dining room. A narrow strip of red paper, a yard long, covered with Chinese hieroglyphics, will hang side by side with an English translation done by Chinatown’s best sign painter.

This rule, done into plain English, will read that Americans with large appetites, who desire to dine on Chinese delicacies, must “put up” a cash deposit in advance or give some other “guarantee of good faith.”

Not Real Gents, at All.

The mean, low-down way in which two Van Wyck rooters imposed upon Chu Wy on election night, and than slashed his lemon-colored countenance, is the cause of all this diplomatic ruling.

Calm and peaceful as a deaf-mute convention, was Chu Wy’s restaurant on Tuesday night. Whether Roosevelt or Van Wyck was elected, it disturbed not the sedate Celestials, and the shouts and cheers of enthusiastic rooters outside bad no effect upon them.

Shortly before midnight two husky-looking persons entered the restaurant. On their breasts were pinned Democratic buttons as big as saucers, from which hung streamers. Chu Wy salaamed his best salaam, and smiled his sweetest smile.

Bowery whisky and whisky of other parts of town had made the visitors reckless; so they didn’t stop to read the English-printed bill of fare. Somebody told them that Van Wyck was elected, so they did not care for expense.

“Bring us all you got in the house!” said, the man with the big mustache.

Many Delicacies.

Chu Wy salaamed again, shuffled to the kitchen and told the cooks to stir themselves. Roast duck, roast pig, birds’ nest soup, chow chop suey, pickled sharks’ fins, dried fish and other delicacies that delight the Chinese epicure were set before the hungry representatives of the Democracy.

While they gorged themselves Chu Wy retired to a corner and figured up the bill. It certainly was not small. The meal eaten, Chu Wy brought forth tiny, glasses of samshu, the fiery liquor distilled from rice. 

Over this the customers smacked their lips They called for more. The glasses were filled several times, and Chu Wy was about to go for the tea when his customers jumped up from the table and bolted toward the door.

Chu Wy ran after them, shouting in pidgin English and Chinese. Half a dozen pig-tailed heads were shoved out from doors, and soon there was more excitement in Mott street than it had seen for many a day. 

Got Him by the Queue.

Chu Wy seized one of the fugitives, demanding money for the meal. The man grabbed Chu by the queue and stabbed him In the face with a penknife.

All Chu Wy’s courage vanished then and he sat down on the curbstone to reflect. His brethren gathered around him, and while they chattered the Melican men escaped.

In the Hudson Street Hospital, Chu, with the gash in his cheek sewed up, is lying on a cot trying to think out a proper sign.

New York Herald, November 10, 1898 

Chinaman Found Stabbed.
Shue White, It Was Reported, Was Hurt in a Fight and Is in a Dying Condition.

With a terrible stab wound in his neck, evidently made with a large knife, Shue White, a Chinese waiter, fifty-six years old, was found in a dying condition early yesterday morning in a restaurant at No. 12 Mott street. Because of his condition the man was unable to tell who stabbed him, and the police, so far, have been unable to find any clew that will aid them in unravelling the mystery. They have been greatly handicapped in their efforts to find White’s assailant because the finding of the man was not reported from the Hudson Street Hospital for several hours.

White was employed in the restaurant where he was attacked. Me Hong Low was his employer. He lived next door, at No. 14 Mott street, and had been at work all the evening, serving chop suey, shark’s fins and other delicacies to Chinamen of the district, but shortly after midnight, when an ambulance was summoned, not a person was in the place. 

Dr. Bailey, the ambulance surgeon, found the Chinaman lying on the floor, unable to speak.

When Sergeant McNamara, of the Eldridge street station, learned of the case it was nearly three o’clock, and even then the word came from a boy and not from the hospital. The boy said a Chinaman had been stabbed In a fight at No. 12 Mott street, but could not give any particulars. Detective Brennan hastened to the restaurant, where he found everything as quiet as if the place had never been inhabited.

He woke up Me Hong Low and several other Chinamen, but all, with their best English they could command, declared they knew nothing about any fight. Half a dozen detectives were put on the case at daylight, but, owing to the inborn reticence of every Chinaman in Mott street, they have been unable to learn anything. White’s condition was reported, as critical at the hospital last night.

New York Daily Tribune, November 10, 1898

Queer Crime in Chinatown.
A Cook Found with His Throat Cut—Won’t Say How He Was Hurt—No Arrests.

A citizen called an ambulance from the Hudson Street Hospital late on Tuesday night to care for a Chinaman who was found with his throat cut in a restaurant kept by Me, Hong, Low & Co., on the second floor of No. 14 Mott-st. The Chinaman was weak from loss of blood, and was unable or unwilling to tell how he had received his wound. At the hospital it was learned, after much difficulty, that his name was Chue White, and that he was employed as a cook in the restaurant. 

The police of the Elizabeth-st. station were not informed of the case until 1 o’clock yesterday morning, when a small boy entered the station and informed the sergeant that “a chink” had been cut in a “scrap” at No. 14 Mott-st. A detective was sent to investigate, but he found the eating-house closed. All of the Chinamen in the building were apparently asleep, and those who were aroused shrugged their shoulders and intimated that they knew nothing of the affair.

Another effort was made yesterday to ascertain how the wounded Celestial received his injury, but vainly, and as the Chinaman at the hospital still refused to say how he had been hurt or to accuse anybody the police could do nothing. The doctors at the hospital hope to save White’s life.

Shortly after this incident, the restaurant closed and reopened under a new name.


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